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Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Over my 30 years at Pike and Western, Washington cabernet sauvignon has changed. Through the mid 80’s the wines were less concentrated, not as jammy, and less alcoholic. They tasted like a cross between Bordeaux and California showed great cabernet varietal character and they aged wonderfully. I’ve had many conversations with wine makers and growers and they talk about physiological ripeness, avoiding green flavors but for me many of the wines have lost their “cabernetness”, they taste like ripe red wine. Except for this wine. This wine is a bit of a throwback. Its medium bodied, it has acidity, and there is almost an austerity to it that makes me think it will really reward cellaring. And it is not alcoholic, chocolaty or roasted. Of course Gramercy doesn’t have a track record to speak of (especially with cabernet. They have been emphasizing Rhone varietals) but I will be keeping an eye on them because of this wine.

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